Ημερολόγιο Συνεργείου

Sources of parts

• BMW official (be careful because some parts are available in Germany but do not appear in other countries)-https://www.ersatzteile-auto-bmw.de/
• Walloth&Nesch-https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/
• Jaymic- https://www.jaymic.com/
• https://www.ahrend-02-tuning.de/index.php
• Stefan Ries (tii brake discs for example)- https://shopware.bmw-oldtimerteile.de/en/ries/
• NL-based, Loentje - https://www.loentje.com/
• Ireland-Engineering - https://www.iemotorsport.com/
• KleinAnzeigen - https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/
• For interior - https://cabrio.de/
• For hydraulics in Greece, check - https://www.bellos-hoses.com/
• Springs: https://merwede-springs.nl/
• Limited slip differential parts: https://www.limitedslip.de/service/teile.html
• VGS Motorsport, Cologne (vgs-motorsport.com): Weber DCOE parts; can identify DCOE variants by their numbers. DCOE lever set for BMW 2002 V 4006.01 S, DCOE fuel T-piece/double banjo 8 mm 2110536.034.00, 90° fuel inlet 2110536.035.00. Publishes an exploded view + parts list for the 40 DCOE 151.
• CarbParts.eu ("CarbDeal" on eBay): free DCOE service manual, exploded view and priced parts list for the early 40 DCOE; DCOE gasket kits as "basic" (reseal) or "full restoration".
• Ruddies Berlin (ruddies-berlin.de): Solex 40 DDH exploded view.
• TZR-Motorsport: camshafts, e.g. Schrick 304° (forum).
• AVL Schrick, Remscheid (schrick.com): M10 cams 000201040-01/-02, 000201160-03/-04, 000201280-01, 000201360-01, 000201840-01/-02/-05, 000201920-01/-02. M10 valves 000213005 (exhaust) / 000213022 (intake), rocker M10/M30 000213068-01, degree wheel 089900001.
• Walter Thomas (Facebook): air-filter bracket for keeping the original ti air-filter drum with twin carbs, 02 and NK. Version A: brake fluid reservoir on the strut tower; version B: reservoir on the master cylinder.
• Cahsel (DE): copper replica of the 2002ti coolant return pipe.
• Bremsen-Heinz (bremsen-heinz.de): performance pads, e.g. Pagid RS4-2H for 2002 tii (no road approval; transfer the anti-squeal shims).
• Kugelfischer: Fuel Injection Center (fuelinjectioncenter.com, USA) repairs KF pumps. In Germany Koller & Schwemmer (Nuremberg) was the known KuFi specialist (forum: costly full overhauls).
• Classic tyres (DE/AT/CH): Münchner Oldtimer Reifen (oldtimer-reifen.com), Oldtimerreifen Möller (oldtimerreifen-moeller.de), Vintage Wheels (vintagewheels.de), HKT Hannes Kuhn (reifen-technik.eu, Blockley), Moser (oldtimerreifen.at), Cool American Imports (classicreifen.ch), Bjooli (bjooli.com).
• VIN decoder for 02s (7-digit chassis number): bmwclasicos.com.

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Articles & references

• Important for the changes of the 02 during the years (facelifts, etc.) - https://www.bmw-02-club.de/index.php/die-wagen/bmw-1502-2002-turbo/modellpflege
• About the NK. Important as some parts are shared between the models - https://www.bmw-02-club.de/index.php/die-wagen/bmw-1500-2000-tii/modellpflege
• strichzwo.de: period TÜV/Alpina documents (A1/A2/A4 conversions), gearbox ratio page and the E21 5-speed conversion guide.
• 02-club.de "Technik": M10 overview (all bore/stroke versions), wheel alignment table, Solex DDH guide (all summarised in this file).
• English Weber tuning manual (PDF) attached to a bmw2002faq.com post by "Jeff" (Alpina 40 DCOE 88/89 jetting).

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About the 02 Touring

• https://web.archive.org/web/20151214184042/http://www.bmw-02-club.de/cms/index.php/faq/203-faq-alt-ersatzteile-und-technische-probleme-antwort-4
• The Alpina A1 engine was TÜV-approved as a retrofit for the Touring (Ausf. A–H, ABE 7749), besides 1600-2/1602 (ABE 5260, 5260/1), 1600 TI (5872), 1802 (7744), 2002 (6036), 2002 TI (6362) and 2002 tii (7641).
• The Alpina A2 emissions approval (VdTÜV report 3 Aug 1973) was done on a 2002 Touring, chassis 3505544 (originally a 1802 body).
• Rear spring upper rubber ring: always the 1-dot (28 mm) ring on Touring models with original springs (see Suspension).
• KONI: the 1600/1800/2000 Touring (71–75) uses the same dampers as the saloon: front 86 1519 Sport, rear 80 1868 Sport.
• Factory halogen fog-light kit 63 17 1 357 446 was offered for the 1602–2002 Touring/tii from 9/73 (see Lighting).

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Models, history & identification

• VIN locations: engine boss above the starter, plate on the steering column/dash, possibly a door-frame sticker, engraving on the inner wing top. Reproduction plates exist; some 1976 USA cars left the factory without a plate. (forum)
• Colorado (orange): 11/1968–08/1973; until Q3/1969 only on the 2002ti. (forum)
• 1600 ti original engine bay: twin Solex PHH and a round air-filter canister with a corrugated hose. The 1600ti/1600GT twin-carb air box has the same carb spacing as the 2002ti box but no cut-out for the brake booster (booster-less cars). (claim)
• Alpina A1 (Bovensiepen, Buchloe; based on engine type 121, after the 2002 ti): converted engines must be marked "A1" after the engine number. See M10 Engine.
• Walter Struckmann won the 1970 German hillclimb championship in a BMW 1600 Alpina (9 of 9 events).

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M10 Engine

• https://forum.bmw-02-club.de/index.php?topic=164455.msg164456#msg164456
• Double carburettors need ti/tii/turbo brake booster due to space demands (especially when original filter boxes are used)
• Versions (bore × stroke): 1499 cc 82×71 · 1573 cc 84×71 (1600/1602/1502, E21 316) · 1773 cc 84×80 (early 1800/1800ti) · 1766 cc 89×71 M10B18 (1802, 518, 318) · 1990 cc 89×80 M10B20 (2002/ti/tii/Turbo, 320, 520). "M10" refers to the block only; heads and pistons differ between 2002, ti and tii.
• Bosch test values (1975): valve clearance cold, intake/exhaust 0.15–0.20 mm on all listed 02s; crank-to-alternator ratio 1:1.76; carb-engine fuel pump delivery 0.21–0.30 bar at 2000 rpm; injection (tii, Turbo) 1.5–2.5 bar.
• Alpina A1: 115 PS (85 kW) @ 5800, 1977 cc, 185 km/h, 165 HR 13. First with 2× Weber 40 DCOE 19 (TÜV 11.5.1971), then re-approved with 2× Solex 40 DDH + BMW dry air filter 13 71 1 252 602 (2002 TI series) or Purolator E 622 for the emissions rules (cars registered from 1.10.1971). Emission measure: balance pipe joining the 4 runners, bypass with restrictor jet to the crankcase breather. Conditions: series 4-speed, 3.64 diff, series exhaust, HR tyres, series ARBs, unladen weight ≥ 920 kg.
• Alpina A2: 150 PS @ 6700, 1990 cc, 2× Solex 45 DDH (venturi 38, main 110, idle 45, air correction 120, idle air 80), camshaft 300° / 10 mm lift, distributor Bosch JFUR4 0 231 100 005, closed two-circuit crankcase ventilation (1.4 mm restrictor).
• "BMW Alpina 1800 TIZ" valve-cover decal (the decal says "TIZ": an Alpina designation, not the factory 1800 TI/SA; meaning of "Z" unconfirmed): 4.25 l HD SAE30 oil, valve clearance 0.20 mm intake/exhaust, ignition 3° BTDC, plugs Bosch 235P21 or W240T2, firing order 1-3-4-2.
• Cams (forum): a 285° cam gives little over stock; 300°/304° (e.g. Schrick) is a good street compromise with twin carbs.
• Connecting rod length (2002 tii homologation 5445): 148 mm centre to centre.
• Performance cam installation rules (Schrick, apply to any M10 cam):
  • Fit new rockers with a new cam; check that no lobe touches the head.
  • Valve-to-piston clearance at TDC ≥ overlap lift + 1.5 mm (pistons may need valve pockets).
  • Intake and exhaust valve heads ≥ 1.5 mm apart at maximum overlap; retainer ≥ 1.5 mm from the stem seal at full lift.
  • Valve springs ≥ 1.0 mm from coil bind at full lift; set installed height with shims and measure every valve.
  • Turning the engine by hand is not a clearance check; measure.
  • Timing check: set the specified overlap lift (intake opening, exhaust closing) at cylinder 1 TDC, fit and tension the chain, turn the crank 720° and re-measure.

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Fuel, carburettors & injection

Weber DCOE

• BMW applications in Weber's tables: 40 DCOE 19 = BMW 1600/1800 (float level A 7 mm, B 15 mm); 45 DCOE 15-16 = BMW 1800 TI/SA (A 7.5, B 14, pump stroke 14 mm). For reference: 40 DCOE 76/77 (Alfa 2000) A 7.5 / B 14; 40 DCOE 28 (Alfa 1300 GT Junior) A 8.5 / B 15, pump stroke 14. Plastic (Spansil) floats (40 DCOE 151, 45 DCOE 152): always A 12.5 / B 25, even when replacing a brass float.
• Alpina Weber 40 DCOE 88/89, 2.0 l: choke 34 · aux venturi 4.50 · main 1.25 (125) · idle 0.55 F8 · emulsion tube F16 · air corrector 2.40 (240) · starter 0.60 F5 · pump jet 0.40 · pump back-bleed 0.60 · needle valve 2.00.
• No BMW jetting table exists in the own documents. Closest reference: Alfa Romeo factory jetting (owner highlighted 40 DCOE 28 and 76/77). Column labels interpreted from the usual Weber table order; check against the original.

• 40 DCOE 151 (new production) standard: choke 30, aux 4.5, emulsion tube F11, main 115, air corrector 200, idle 45F9, needle valve 200, starter 85F9. Pump jet is given as 40 on one page and "50 = series" on another.
• Service: initial idle-mixture screws ½–¾ turn out from lightly seated. Jet stack top→bottom: air corrector, emulsion tube, main jet. Float level: cover vertical with gasket, tab just touching the needle ball. On 45 DCOE and on 40 DCOE from type 136, chokes and aux venturis are retained by screws. Check pump stroke after every spindle refit (10 or 14 mm depending on type).
• Running faults: hot start = no starter, half throttle while cranking; cold start = starter on, pedal untouched; poor idle = manifold gaskets, idle jets, starter valve, throttle return; flooding = needle valve and float level.
• Cold weather: below ~3 °C the air jets can ice up; the 2002ti airbox takes warm air from the engine bay, so avoid cold-air intakes in winter. Cars kept outside need the starter; give one throttle pump before cranking. (claim)
• Twin DCOE conversion needs: trumpets and air filter, larger intake manifolds, modified throttle levers and a full linkage, water flanges, and the throttle-linkage bracket extended downwards (e.g. two 8 mm washers welded on) so the shaft clears the carbs. 45 DCOE is too big for a stock head; 40 DCOE suits better. Buy parts separately rather than as a kit. (forum)
• Alpina twin-carb air box: black tubular box with 4 rubber boots, on a bracket at the left strut tower next to the brake fluid reservoir.

Solex DDH

• Settings for 2002/2000 (per Solex, 02-club.de):

• Maintenance: the starter diaphragm tears (disable the starter, or fit a diaphragm from a distributor vacuum unit). Set the throttle plates on the bench so the transition ports open evenly, then synchronise with the idle screw. Float level: measure midway between the floats. Pump shot: 10 strokes ÷ 10.

Mechanical fuel pump

• Single-carb pump 1971–73: diaphragm 13 31 1 255 181, insulating bushings 13 31 0 075 752, spring 13 31 0 075 775, sealing ring 13 31 0 680 130 (some reportedly NLA). Fit with the pump lever mid-stroke, then tighten the diaphragm screws; rule of thumb preload = half the 4 mm stroke. BMW special tool 5125 (setting gauge) is rare. (forum)

Kugelfischer injection

• About 20,000 E12 520i had Kugelfischer injection; many were scrapped for 2002tii engines. Only the alternator bracket and oil pan/pump differ from the tii engine. (forum)
• Real pump defects are rare. Before touching the basic adjustment screw check fuel pressure (at the cold-start valve), warm-up regulator and lever, control lever on its shaft, linkage play and rod adjustment, and vacuum leaks (warm-up regulator hose). (forum)

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Ignition & electrical

Ignition timing

• 2002 ti (factory manual): static TDC; dynamic 25° BTDC at 2200 rpm, vacuum hose off; advance at 3000 rpm 30–34° or 29–33°, at 3500 rpm 32–36° or 33–37° (end), depending on distributor; maximum adjustment at the crankshaft 34±2°, 37±2° or 35±2°; maximum centrifugal advance 16°. Distributors 0 231 129 026 / 0 231 129 033 / 0 231 151 008; current replacement Bosch 0 231 188 002 (BMW 12 11 1 271 726). The 1600 ti and 1600 GT use the same distributor family.
• Setting up a ti/tii-type distributor (Wolfgang, 02-club.de; owner used it on the Touring with a 0 231 151 008, 2026): at idle the timing is at TDC. 25° BTDC is reached at 2200 rpm for the 0 231 151 008, -009, -003, 0 231 188 002, -001 and 0 231 129 037, but already at 1400 rpm for the 0 231 129 026 (vacuum hose off). Full advance 30–34° BTDC at 3500 rpm. On the pulley 25° is about 25 mm and 32° about 32 mm from the TDC mark (a paint dot helps without an adjustable timing light). Standard ti settings apply to engines up to a 304° camshaft; only forged high-compression engines with hemispherical chambers need less advance at high rpm (modified distributor, but never past TDC at idle). Other models: early 1502 25° at 1900 rpm; 1600–2002A 25° at 1400 rpm; tii 25° at 2400 rpm.
• Factory manual, other models: static 3° BTDC (1502, 1602, 1802, 2002, 2002A), TDC (ti, tii). Dynamic 25° BTDC at 1400±50 rpm (1602/1802/2002/2002A), 1900 rpm (1502), 2400 rpm (2002 tii from 1.1.1976, earlier 2800). Max centrifugal advance: 1502 18.3°, 1602/1802 18°, 2002 16°, 2002A 21.6°. Vacuum advance 8–12° crank, from 120–150 to 195–210 mmHg; the 2002A from 1973 has vacuum retard.

• Timing marks: "OT" = TDC; the steel ball pressed into the flywheel = 25° BTDC; viewed through the hole in the bellhousing. Dwell 59–65° (58–64° on US single-carb models). Condenser 0.17–0.23 µF.
• Bosch test values (1975 sheet):

• Bosch distributor history (current part ← superseded): 1600-2/1602/1802/US 1602: BMW 12 11 1 271 729 = Bosch 0 231 168 022 (← 0 231 180 004, 115 072, 115 048). 2002/2002A: 12 11 1 271 738 = 0 231 168 023 (← 180 005, 115 071, 115 045). 1600 ti/2002 ti/2002 tii/1600 GT: 12 11 1 271 726 = 0 231 188 002 (← 151 009, 151 008, 129 033, 129 037, 151 003, 129 026). 2002 Turbo: 12 11 1 271 741 = 0 231 168 026 (← 180 014). 1502: 0 231 181 016 / 181 017 / 188 001.
• Bosch 0 231 151 008: centrifugal advance only (no vacuum unit); used on the 2002 ti and 2002 tii.
• Condenser: 200 kΩ insulation, 0.01 Ω series resistance; rotor 5 kΩ.

Charging & electrics

• Bosch test values: alternator K1 14V 45A 22 (35A on some US models); regulator AD 1/14 V, 0 190 601 006, 13.9–14.8 V at ~2000 rpm with load.
• Original voltage regulator: external grey can on the inner fender above the battery. E21 320 alternators have an internal regulator, so with that swap the can is disconnected or removed. 45 A is enough unless you add big loads.
• Indicator lamp flashes once, indicators flash fast or the fuel gauge is dead → usually a bad ground. The front indicators ground through the screws into the fender (paint after a respray breaks the contact): clean to bare metal or add a ground wire; check the cluster grounds. The flasher relay sits behind the cluster; bending its dash-lamp contact slightly helps. (forum)

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Cooling

• Coolant return pipe along the block: the E21 320i pipe 11 53 1 266 817 fits the M10. Cut off and weld shut the short end; its tab lines up with an existing threaded hole. (forum)

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Brakes

• Keep ALWAYS in mind the brake pistons/wheel brake cylinder to brake master cylinder diameter ratio
• If you want to install turbo ventilated front discs, you need to buy the turbo wheel hubs (increasing the front wheel track and possibly causing interference with the fender) and install spacers between the two parts of the calliper, as well as the turbo retaining clip for the brake pads
• The easiest way to install ventilated brakes is the ALPINA A4 discs, which can be mounted to ti/tii struts and hubs with a 7mm spacer between the two calliper parts. Parts are available from a user on the German forum, known as “André Meisel”.
• The NK brake rotor shields can be modified to fit the 2002 and provide higher airflow due to a spoiler they have. This is a common ALPINA modification
• Double circuit 4-piston 40mm brake callipers for ti/tii/turbo, double circuit 4-piston 40mm brake callipers for all the others except 1502 were single circuit, with a 2-piston 48mm calliper used
• Handbrake cables between regular 02 and turbo are different due to the 250 mm drum
• 22mm wheel brake cylinder needs a brake pressure regulator to retain the correct brake bias
• The E21 has the same drum as the 2002 turbo. However, the E21 has wheel bolts, not wheel nuts, so it has a hole for an M8 fixing screw. The E21 drum is designed to be balanced with the screw; therefore, if you don’t put the fixing screw in, you will notice a shake in high frequencies (kms/hr). Check this thread (https://forum.bmw-02-club.de/index.php?topic=168313.135)
• Early and late E21 have different drum backing plates, with early ones having the same P/N as the 02 turbo ones. Check this for possible differences (https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/229167-250-mm-drums-from-turbo-on-a-tii/), though not sure about the validity
• The ti/tii/turbo brake booster uses a dual membrane and therefore is larger in length and smaller in diameter compared to the regular one; however, the force amplification is almost the same. The only real reason to use the “big” one is for dual carburettors with the ti filter-box or injection
• Brake master cylinder of ti/tii/turbo/late NK is ALMOST identical to E12/E9/E3; however, the later ones do not have the pre-pressure valve for the rear drum brakes, and therefore the rear brake outlet is M10. A solution to that is a) to use an M10x1 outside to an M12x1 inside and use the old pre-pressure valve, or b) to buy an M10 pre-pressure valve from ATE
• The idea of installing a smaller diameter (e.g., 20mm) BMC in a tii/turbo is wrong. By decreasing the diameter, you increase the pedal travel for the same hydraulic pressure. Therefore, in case of hot brakes or air in the system, you end up pressing the pedal to the floor. Safety first!
• Don’t expect the brake pedal to have a similar, sensitive feel to a modern car. The pedal is heavier than those, and it should be, as there are no electronics involved (e.g., ABS). The traction limit should be less subtle for a daily driver.
• Flush the brake fluid every two years to avoid corrosion of the brake components (callipers, MC, etc.)
• Drum shoes can be adjusted by the eccentric bolts and the handbrake cables
• Eccentric bolts should be regularly inspected and greased to avoid rust
• For replacing the fixing bolt of the front dust shields (which is shitty/ultra-low profile), you can use Hülsenmutter (in German).
• Great pads: ATE, Textar (T260, T476), Pagid rsh29e
• Another good idea for increasing brake power is to use the E21 hubs (up to 1980, p/n 31211116681), machine the front face 1mm, and use the E21 ventilated rotor with the turbo or E12 brake callipers. The machining is to shift the brake disc so that it sits centered in the calliper. Lug bolts, rather than lug nuts, should be used.
• Strut identification for brakes: caliper mount spacing 88.9 mm on ti/tii/Turbo (and late NK four-doors) vs 76.2 mm on the small 02s.
• Rear wheel cylinders per homologation: 19 mm standard; 22.2 mm only with a brake-force regulator/ABS. Front piston bore 54 mm.
• ATE cross-reference (2014 catalogue): 03.6127-0001.4 / 03.6127-0301.4 → 03.2123-6802.3 = tandem master cylinder 23.81 mm; 03.6122-2001… → 19.05 mm; 03.6122-2402… → 20.64 mm; 03.6127-0801.4 → 22.20 mm with reservoir. C&C Parts cross-references 03.6127-0301.4 to BMW 34 33 1 103 347.
• (forum) At about 1.25 g deceleration the rear brakes stop contributing (rough calculation). For racing pedal boxes AP Racing worked better than Tilton (36 mm tunnel hole, longer union-nut threads).
• Brake fluid: DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are glycol-based and miscible; DOT 5 is silicone and not miscible. Glycol fluid is hygroscopic: change yearly, at the latest every 2 years. Never let mineral oil near the system.

• Pads (Textar): replace per axle; minimum lining 2 mm; ECE R90 mark on approved replacement pads. Use a non-metallic brake paste rather than copper paste. Overhaul fixed calipers every 3 years / 60,000 km; replace pressure-regulating valves after 3 years / 90,000 km at the latest.

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Suspension

• Front struts are different between ti/tii/turbo and all the other 02s, as the spindle has a different diameter
• The rear arm is different between ti/tii/turbo and the others. They have a closed cross-section
• Front wheel hub is different between the ti/tii and the turbo (and of course all the other). Due to the ventilated disc, the hub is extended by the increase in disc thickness. The bearing assembly is the same, however.
• Rear wheel hub is also different (thicker) between the ti/tii and the turbo. From 1502 to the present, the spindle remains the same. Wheel bearings are the same from 1502 to TI/TII, except for the turbo model. The turbo spindle is hardened and usually required to step up to 6-inch rims or more (according to the specs)
• For lowering without lowered shock absorbers, the Andexer springs combined with KONIs are a great combination. Check here (https://forum.bmw-02-club.de/index.php?topic=187525.0) , here (https://www.wallothnesch.com/satz-fahrwerksfedern-4-stueck-vorn-u-hinten-tieferlegung-ca-15-20-mm-f-alle-modelle-u-baujahre-passend-es-sind-keine-gekuerzten-stossdaempfer-noetig-die-drahtstaerke-der-federn-ist-13-4-mm-an-der-vorderachse-u-13-4-mm-an-der-hinterachse-d-31-05-15.html) and here (http://www.team-andexer.de/)
• Springs:
  • F/R diameter
    • Regular: 11.8mm/12.3mm
    • HD: 12mm/13.2mm
  • F/R length
    • Regular 332mm/333mm
    • HD 345mm/324mm
• All the versions have the same front springs (including touring)
• Rear springs of the turbo are slightly shorter
• Front ARB is usually 16mm (15mm sometimes), except turbo, where 20mm was used for more neutral (towards understeer) behaviour
• Rear ARB is 16mm
• Touring has different, softer rear ARB mounts
• The correct way to measure the stance of the car is by the trim line. It should be level. Avoid the common misconception that the rear is lower. The rear feather is lowered in comparison to the front.
• Before changing springs, you should measure the distance of the front and rear feathers to the ground to see how the vehicle changes its stance.
• The front tension rod bushing might introduce some compliance and change of kinematics when braking. Check periodically and replace it with a PU one.
• PU bearings: https://shop.histomondial.de/71-02erseriee6e10-typ-114, https://www.powerflex-deutschland.de/powerflex-road-series-strasse/bmw/1502-2002--1962---1977-/
• Alpina – to a great extent – used Bilstein USD (upside down) dampers and strut housings. Sometimes, other manufacturers, such as Koni and FS, are also involved.
  • These struts are marked Red – Race, Yellow – Rally, Green – Street
  • Some of them have negative camber
  • The spindle is the same as ti/tii (there might have been production of regular ones, though)
  • The diameter of the housing is increased with respect to the regular ones
  • At the intersection with the spindle, there is a gradual reduction of diameter (conical section)
  • Usually, the strut perch is lowered by 20mm. There has been a version with an adjustable perch, though
  • Rear ones are not coil over
  • Alpina also offered progressive (nonlinear) springs
  • Best version for street setup is yellow or green.
  • Bilstein can rebuild and re-adjust them at reasonable cost
  • Very rare to find!
• USD struts have three main advantages:
  • Reduced unsprung mass
  • Integrated negative camber (up to -1.5 degrees)
  • If an adjustable perch is integrated, ride height control
• If the car is lowered, roll centre spacers should be installed between the strut and the steering arm (which also holds the ball joint for the control arm). These spacers help restore proper suspension geometry by raising the front roll centre and returning the control arms to a more favourable angle. This improves camber gain during suspension compression, allowing the wheels to maintain better negative camber and a larger contact patch during cornering, while also reducing bump steer and excessive body roll (due to the relocation of the roll centre).
• For more than 1.5 degrees of negative camber, offset strut bearings should be installed, as interference between the strut and wheel assembly may occur (depending on wheel width and offset). On the BMW 2002, altering camber by changing the inclination of the strut assembly also affects the kingpin inclination (KPI) and scrub radius, since the strut, spindle, and upright form a rigid unit. This is unlike modern vehicles, where the knuckle is a separate component; in those cases, strut inclination changes do not affect KPI. A similar effect occurred when using offset roll centre spacers, which also influence the steering axis geometry, in 2002.
• For the rear axle, if the vehicle is lowered significantly (typically more than 30–40 mm), camber and toe-in should be re-adjusted. The BMW 2002 uses a semi-trailing arm rear suspension, which naturally increases negative camber and toe-in as the suspension compresses. Excessive lowering amplifies these effects, potentially leading to poor tire wear and handling imbalances. Several solutions exist to mitigate this:
  • Flip the rear subframe mounts — This raises the subframe relative to the chassis (~12-13mm), effectively restoring rear camber and toe closer to factory values. Note that the differential mounts must also be adjusted to avoid introducing drivetrain stress due to altered alignment.
  • Eccentric trailing arm bushings — These allow fine-tuning of static toe and camber. However, they may alter the kinematic behaviour of the suspension during travel. While the effect is likely small, it’s worth considering that you're trading static alignment correction for a potentially altered dynamic response.
  • Adjustable trailing arm mounting kits — These provide the most precise control over alignment but require cutting and welding the rear subframe to install. This is a more complex solution, but it allows for proper geometry correction across a wide range of ride heights. Rear axle, due to semi-trailing arm geometry, has adequate camber gain; therefore, statically, it can be set up to lower values than the front.
• If coil-overs are installed at the rear axle, reinforcement of the wheel housing should be made, as the factory didn’t account for such concentrated forces at this point
• Anti-Roll Bars (ARB):
  • Anti-roll bars reduce body roll and improve handling balance by increasing roll stiffness.
  • The front ARB is most effective for RWD cars like the 2002, improving turn-in and reducing camber loss during cornering.
  • Avoid oversizing the rear ARB. It can lead to excessive weight transfer, inside wheel lift, and snap oversteer.
  • Polyurethane bushes are a low-cost upgrade to reduce compliance and sharpen ARB response (minimal though). Replacing ARB drop links and joints with rose joints (spherical bearings) eliminates play and enhances response, especially under high loads.
  • Adjustable ARBs allow fine-tuning of roll stiffness for track or road use.
  • Consider matching ARB upgrades with spring and damper rates; balance is key.
  • Lateral locks are essential to prevent ARB side movement, energy loss, and delay in action otherwise.
• Basic tuning of the vehicle’s steady state behaviour is achieved by roll stiffness (springs and ARB) and the roll centre’s location:
  • Increasing roll stiffness in an axle will increase the load transferred through this axle (portion of the total weight transfer) and therefore will overload quicker than the other. Increasing the front or decreasing the rear roll stiffness will make the vehicle more prone to understeer, while decreasing the front or increasing the rear roll stiffness will make it more prone to oversteer.
  • Roll stiffness can be controlled by springs and ARBs, but since ARBS act only in roll or bump (decoupled from heave mode), it’s better to tune it by the ARBs
  • Increasing the roll centre height increases the lateral weight transfer on that axle
  • Increasing the roll centre to a point close to the centre of mass decreases the adjustability of the vehicle through the roll stiffness
• How to identify front struts: spindle bearing seats 19 / 31.7 mm on ti/tii/Turbo (and late NK four-doors), 17 / 29 mm on the small 02s; no useful numbers are stamped on the struts. ti/tii/Turbo front struts are identical, only the damper tuning differs. Accessory struts with 1–2° negative camber exist and can only be spotted by comparing two struts.
• Alpina / sport struts (forum): thicker tube, spring plate usually 20 mm lower, spindle welded at an angle (negative camber), inverted Bilstein damper; road valving typically 220/120. Early kits used standard springs shortened half a coil at each end. Rear: Bilstein 815 (road) and 817 (racing, uniball). Bilstein still supplies inserts but not the tubes. Original Sachs sport struts have "wet" internals (no cartridge) and are marked L/R. Period BMW/Alpina chassis kits: Type A (road), Type B (sport/competition).
• Factory geometry (BMW data and 02-club.de), at "normal" load: 2 × 68 kg front seats, 68 kg rear seat, 21 kg in the boot, full tank. Ride height = lower edge of wheel arch to bottom of rim flange.

• Rear spring upper rubber ring: 28 mm = 1 dot/green, 33 mm = 2 dots/white, 37 mm = 3 dots/red; Touring with original springs: always 1 dot. Lower ring 24 mm only. Factory spring free lengths: front std 13.28″ (337 mm), front HD 13.58″ (345 mm), rear std 13.17″ (335 mm), rear Baur cabrio 14.25″.
• KONI for all E10 incl. ti/tii/Turbo and Touring: front 86 1519 Sport, rear 80 1868 Sport; 2002 kit with lowering springs 1145 1141 (−25/−25 mm). Adjustment (series 80/86): compress fully while turning anticlockwise until it engages, keep compressed and turn clockwise for more damping (range ~5 half turns), pull out ≥ 1 cm without turning. Always set left and right the same. KONI Sport has a lifetime warranty (forum).

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Steering

• ZF-Gemmer worm-and-roller box: ratio 15.5:1 (overall 17.57:1), 3.5 turns lock to lock, max play at the rim 20 mm, oil 300 cm³ SAE 90 hypoid. Friction torque at straight-ahead 80–120 Ncm; worm bearing 10–25 Ncm; roller-shaft adjusting-screw play 0.05 mm. Turning circle 10.40 m.
• Steering spindle: early version (M12×1.5 wheel nut) 895 mm, later (M14×1.5) 903 mm; spindle bearing preload 6.0–6.5 mm.

• Removing the box (BMW op. 32 11 000): scribe the upper joint flange on the spindle; loosen/remove the flange bolts; press the left tie rod and the centre track rod off with pullers 32 2 050 and 32 2 090; unbolt the box from the axle carrier. On refit: wheels and steering straight ahead (marks on housing and shaft aligned), seat the box in its dowel sleeves, 43 Nm, new self-locking nuts.
• Overhaul (op. 32 11 503) needs the friction-torque meter and adapter BMW 7015: set the worm bearing to 10–25 Ncm with shims while turning the worm; after filling with oil set 80–120 Ncm through straight-ahead with the adjusting screw; renew the pitman-arm lock plate every time.

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Tires & rims

• The tire is the MOST critical part of your car!
• All 02s were equipped with 165-70-R13
• 85-70-R13 size changes the diameter to 589 from 561. Therefore, it introduces a slight error to the speedometer (decreased km/h) due to the reduced final gear ratio, which also has minor consequences for responsiveness.
• 02 turbo and E21 have the same steel rim 5.5J13, though 02 turbo has anthracite centre, with ET18 (offset)
• There exists an FPS alloy 6J13 rim for the turbo. The same was used as an option in the late 2002s (post 1974) and early European E21, but at the widths of 5 inches and 5.5 inches, respectively
• FPS alloy rims for 02 are 5J13 with ET26
• Regular 5J13 steel rims for 02 have ET29
• The switch from 5.5J13ET18 to 5J13ET26 will bring the wheel 1.7mm closer to the strut, potentially solving the problem of tire rubbing in the feather
• NK struts can be used with the E9 (or E3/E12, probably should be the same) 5 bolt hubs and 272mm discs. The shock absorber, coil spring, and length change, though
• Torques: rear hub castle nut 300 Nm (with cotter pin; the applied handbrake holds the hub); wheel nuts 110 Nm.
• A 185 tyre on a 5.5J rim does not fit the spare-wheel well; use a 165/80 R13 on a 5J steel rim as the spare.
• Early 1600/2002 had 4.5″ rims; wheels over 6.5×13 were mostly for racing and need modifications.
• Genuine FPS alloy for the 02 Sportpaket: 5J×13 ET26, BMW 36 11 1 107 915; originals have the FPS/BMW markings on the inner side, reproductions on the outside. (claim)
• Tyre age: production date = last 4 digits of the DOT code (week + year). Inspect from ~6 years; replace at 10 (max 12) years regardless of tread.
• Classic tyre test 185/70 R15 (Auto Bild Klassik 7/2016): Pirelli CN36 best (wet braking 49 m), Vredestein Sprint Classic good value (52 m), Michelin XWX weak in the wet (54 m), Blockley not recommended (65 m).

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Transmission

• Early models use a Getrag 232/6 gearbox with Porsche synchronizers (steel), while late models use a Getrag 242/6 with Borg-Warner synchronizers (brass).
• Sport 5-speed transmission, Getrag 235/5, was available at the time, which utilised Porsche (steel) synchronizers.
• Borg-Warner type synchronizers were introduced in the E21 for both sports (Getrag 245/2) and overdrive (Getrag 245/4) transmissions. However, it requires some modifications to use it in a 02, take a look here (https://strichzwo.de/umbau-anleitung_5gg__schongetriebe_e21.php)
• Getrag 229 (TISA) was used in the early racing days of 02
• Ratios:

• The only factory 5-speed for the 02 was the Getrag 235/5 (sport, dogleg). Its first gear is tall enough to use in tight corners, the others are closely spaced; poor for city traffic or towing. The 245 sport box has larger steps and no reverse lockout before 1st. The 245 overdrive box with a shorter final drive is a cheaper alternative to the rare sport box.
• Getrag 245 (E12/E21): 3-piece housing, Borg-Warner synchros, 89 mm longer than the 242. Casing codes: T / BO = M10 sport · BJ / GJ = M20 sport · BN, GH, GL = M10 overdrive · GC, GG, GM = M20 overdrive · ME, MF = M10 Getrag 240 overdrive · MG = M20 240 overdrive. Bellhousing check: upper holes 8 mm → fits M10/S14/M88/M30; 10 mm → only M20/M40/M42–44. Buy complete with propshaft and shifter (3- vs 4-lug flanges, different shifter lengths).
• E21 factory boxes: 4-speed Getrag 242 (/9, /18, /18.30; /7-50 on 6-cyl); 5-speed sport 245/2 (to 1981), 245/10 BO (M10 from 1981), 245/11 BJ (6-cyl); overdrive 245/4 BN (M10), 245/288 GC (6-cyl); automatic ZF 3HP-22.
• (forum, Metric Mechanic) For M20 5-speed internals in a front case that bolts to the M10, only the 1978–79 320i 4-speed case works; other 232/242 cases are too short.
• Clutch (2002 ti homologation): 228 mm single dry plate, hydraulic.

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Differential

A Brief Guide to Differentials:

• The standard gear ratio is 3.64 (used in the 2002, 2002ti, later 2002tii, and BMW 320 E21).
• Early tii and 323i E21 have 3.45.
• 1502/1600-2/1602/1802 have 4.11, while the 1600ti has 3.91 (same as some smaller E21 3-series).
• You can also install E21 differentials in the 02 series by using the rear cover from the 02 differential.
• Then you need to create two "hybrid" drive shafts from one 02 and one E21 drive shaft each. To do this: Remove the rubber boot and the circlip, then take off one joint head from each and install it on the other shaft — the splines are the same. Done.

Determining the Gear Ratio:

The number of teeth is stamped on the left side of the differential neck, but it is usually no longer legible after all these years.

Therefore, counting rotations is the fastest and easiest method:

• Mark the input and both output flanges with chalk lines.
• Then rotate the input flange (make sure both output flanges turn evenly) and count how many turns are needed until the output flanges make exactly one complete revolution.
• If the input turns a bit more than 4 times → it's a 4.11 axle.
• A bit more than 3.5 times → 3.64.
• A bit less than 3.5 times → it's a 3.45 (early 2002tii).

This method is very reliable.

Limited-Slip Differential (LSD):

People often wonder if a differential has a limited-slip unit. These were available from the factory as optional extras with 25% or 40% lock, and for motorsport use, even with 75% lock. For street use, 25% is usually more than enough.

It is said that the preload in these LSDs was minimal by the factory (https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/291034-id-of-lsd-from-exterior/), 50 cmkp=4.903325 Nm. Cmkp is a unit no longer used; it is equivalent to a centi-meter-kilopond.

If you remove the rear cover, you can see the differential carrier. The lock percentage is usually stamped or engraved on it — something like S40 for 40% lock, for example. If it's not marked, you’ll have to scrutinize it — it’s not something you can always tell at a glance.

By the way, there's no simple way to test if a limited-slip unit is still working correctly.

Quick Functional Test (If Diff is Out of the Car):

If you're skilled, you might be able to do a quick test from the outside with the diff removed:

• Stand the diff on the neck.
• Grab the two output flanges with both hands.
• Try twisting them against each other.

If this is very tight, good – it's probably still working. If it turns easily, it may or may not be a limited-slip.

• Now turn both output flanges in the same direction.
• The input flange will want to rotate, but it can’t because the diff is sitting on it and you're holding it still.
• Now, under this preload, try turning the output flanges against each other again.
• If it's harder now than before, it's a limited-slip. If it feels the same, it’s an open diff.

As mentioned, this requires some feel and experience. It can be totally fine if the output flanges can either be turned easily against each other (when unloaded) or not at all by hand. Compared to the 100+ horsepower applied during real driving, even a firm hand is incredibly weak.

More notes

• Homologation 5331 lists the standard 3.64 and an optional 4.37 final drive. The Alpina A1 conversion required the 3.64.
• (forum) Several original 02 LSDs had no Belleville (preload) washers, while E21/E36 small-case LSDs do. Without them both wheels turn freely on a lift like an open diff, so a free-spinning wheel does not prove worn clutches.

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Bodywork

• Dinitrol 77B Wax for underbody protection after paint
• Crash structure: crumple zones in the inner fender tops and the bonnet frame; in a frontal hit the engine is pushed down and back. (forum)
• Rust protection for bare-metal parts: rust converter → primer → satin black; heavy duty POR-15 / Würth Rustguard (harsh on skin). (forum)
• Concours checklist (bmw2002faq, user "uai"):
  • Bonnet stay zinc-plated, not painted; brake-line clips phosphated, not zinc-plated; calipers zinc-plated, not painted.
  • Steering-arm and caliper bolts must not be zinc-plated (hydrogen embrittlement).
  • Diff output flanges and halfshafts unpainted; drain plugs under the rear seat aluminium.
  • Sheet-metal nuts and the insulation under the rear seat not painted over; bonnet latch rod white zinc inside, yellow zinc outside.
  • Fan black; door checks painted; booster and starter stickers present; pedal box cover fitted.
  • Fenders folded around the flange and leaded at the joint; no speaker holes in the parcel shelf; correct coil, fuses, paint-code sticker and washer hose.

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Interior

• 1975 BMW accessories: safety sport steering wheel Ø 350/380/400 mm, Turbo sport wheel Ø 380 mm, VDO tachometer 0–8000, clock (electric or quartz), wood or leather gear knobs.
• In 1968 Alpina offered Recaro Rallye 1, Recaro Ideal, Scheel 400 and Scheel 300 seats.
• Retro-look radio with DAB+/Bluetooth: Blaupunkt Frankfurt RCM 82 DAB.

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Lighting

• Factory halogen fog-light kit 63 17 1 357 446 (1602–2002 Touring/tii from 9/73): kit harness onto the fog relay; wire (1) to the plug board, wire (2) to battery +; yellow lamp wires along the loom through the bulkhead; drill a 10.5 mm hole up through the bumper at A = 16 mm, B = 88 mm; switch replaces the dummy switch behind the instrument carrier. Fogs must work with low beam only and go out on high beam.
• Fog relay wiring (forum): Bosch relay 0 332 209 150; 30 = fused +12 V from battery (10 AWG), 87 = lamps (12 AWG), 85 = ground, 86 = from the switch "S"; switch "+" from a low-beam-only source (yellow wire from the stalk; yellow/white is live on low and high).
• Headlamps: stock 7″ round sealed beams, 55/65 W. A 7″ H4 housing is a direct swap; E-code housings with a city light may need the bucket trimmed. Avoid high-wattage bulbs (old harness, weak charging); LED H4 is fine, HID is not (wrong beam pattern). The retaining ring's 3 screws are unevenly spaced, so it fits one way only. (claim)
• Replacing the headlamp units: battery off; remove the 4 screws of each side grille and the grille-to-wing hook (often broken); unplug main and side light; mark the old unit's position; four 8 mm nuts; centre the new unit on the marks; have the beams aimed.

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Homologation & motorsport

• 5331 (2002 ti, Group 2): GRP doors, wings, bonnet and boot lid 41 xx 9 898 650–655; Plexiglas windows 51 3x 9 898 656–662; aluminium front calipers 34 11 9 898 600/601, ventilated discs 260 × 20 mm, rear disc brakes; alloy wheels 6/7.5/8/9 × 13 (36 11 9 898 605–608); track widening +30 mm (5.5″) up to +120 mm (9″); 100 l tank; oil 5.5 l with baffled sump; Weber 40/45 DCOE; ZF S5-18/3 gearbox; MF 215 clutch; reinforced engine and strut mounts.
• 5445 (2002 tii, Group 2, valid to 31.12.1975): reinforced rear axle carrier 33 31 1 106 92? (last digit hidden) and diff housing 33 10 3 704 010; connecting rod 148 mm.

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Troubleshooting

Brakes

Brake Booster

• Rough engine running and constant hissing from the brake booster -> Membrane leaking: Replace.
• Vacuum leaks and poor braking performance -> Replace brake booster
• Hard pedal pressure - no vacuum or key valve defective ->
• Check. Pump the brake booster dry and start the engine with the brake pedal depressed. The pressure should now ease and the pedal should sink slightly. If it remains hard, check the vacuum hose and check valve for blockages. If they are okay, the master cylinder valve is stuck – take it to a specialist for repair!
• A stuck key valve can also occur intermittently. You never know whether the power booster will engage or not when you press the pedal. The fun factor (especially on descents) is considerable, as one unlucky rider experienced on the descent from Mt. St. Agatha (Tuscany, 1,700 m). Intermittent hard brake pressure – it was truly exhilarating.
• If the master brake cylinder is leaking in the primary section (towards the brake booster), replace it quickly, as the brake fluid will dissolve the diaphragm. This can be seen by moisture at the bottom of the master brake cylinder, where it connects to the brake booster. On these booster models, a rubber sealing ring must also be installed on the master brake cylinder flange, otherwise unmetered air can be drawn in.
• Check the function of the brake booster
• Turn off the engine,
• Press the brake pedal several times until strong resistance is felt.
• Keep the brake pedal depressed and start the engine.
• If the brake pedal now gives way, the brake booster is generally functioning. If it doesn't give way, check the vacuum hose and check valve for continuity. If they are okay, the key valve is stuck. Take it to a specialist for repair!
• The vacuum check valve can be installed backwards if you overlook the printed arrow, which must point towards the source of the vacuum, i.e., towards the intake manifold.
• Rapid test for CO content: With the engine idling, quickly pump the brake pedal a few times. This introduces additional air via the brake booster. If the engine speed remains constant within approximately 50 rpm, the mixture is around 3% CO, which is within the acceptable range. If the engine speed increases, the mixture is too rich; if the engine speed drops noticeably, the mixture is too lean.

More notes

• Brake booster, extra vacuum check: run the engine at idle (highest vacuum), switch off, then pull the hose at the booster. A hiss means the booster holds vacuum. The NK booster vacuum system is identical to the 02's. (forum)
• Bosch idle and CO values (1975 sheet): idle 850–950 rpm on carb models (800–950 Turbo, 850–1000 US tii); CO 3.0–4.0 % on the 1502, ≤ 4.5 % on the Turbo. US models: set CO with the air-injection hose and the charcoal-canister vacuum hose disconnected and plugged.

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